JOURNEY TO KENYA
A group of Western Kentucky University faculty and students, including President Gary Ransdell and his wife, Julie, recently traveled 
to Kenya as part of an international research partnership with the University of Nairobi. Coming soon are updated journal entries and photographs as the WKU participants share more details about the trip.
The Kenyan Connection website also includes journal entries from members of a WKU group that spent two weeks in South Africa for a wildlife management class. Dr. Michael Stokes, associate professor of biology, and Dr. Doug McElroy, professor of biology, led the expedition to Kenya. Dr. Stokes led the trip to South Africa.
LATEST JOURNAL ENTRIES
August 01, 2005 | Dr. Gary Ransdell
"A key platform in WKU's strategic plan is the University's priority for internationalizing the Western Experience for students and faculty."
Note: This journal entry has been adapted from an article written by WKU President Gary Ransdell about his trip to Kenya. A full version will appear in the Winter issue of ALUMNI magazine and a version will appear in the August issue of Echo online.
A key platform in WKU’s strategic plan is the University’s priority for internationalizing the Western Experience for students and faculty. WKU engagement across the globe is important to ensure that as many WKU students as possible have meaningful interactions with other cultures, other geographies, other religions, other beliefs, and other civilizations—past and present. It is important for faculty to remain current in world affairs to ensure that teaching and research is timely and relevant in light of changing world politics and problems.
In order to be more personally engaged myself, Julie and I accompanied two members of our Biology faculty and 10 WKU students to Kenya this past summer. The faculty and students worked as they toured; Julie and I assisted and observed.
The result of these experiences, not just our Kenya experience, but also our study abroad opportunities across the globe, is an enriched academic experience at WKU. Our students better understand the significance and value of our American democracy and the unique quality of life we enjoy throughout our nation. We also come to understand the responsibility we share for helping others across the globe have a better chance to experience the things we take for granted.
READ MORE OF PRESIDENT RANSDELL’S JOURNAL
July 15, 2005 | Allison Harnish
"The children welcomed us into their classes in a somewhat military fashion, Standing up and speaking to us in unison, “Good morning teachers…We are fine thanks, how are you.”
Today Chet, Monica, Josephine and I went to Jora, a small village just outside Rukanga where we’ve been camping and conducting research for the past few days.
Meanwhile Robin, Matt and Bradley took a tour of Tsavo national park, Tiffany and Sylvia sampled meat markets around Voi, and the Youth for Conservation boys hunted for snares. Overall, I think YFC has found around forty traps and snares (that could be wrong) and one dead bushbuck.
Anyway, we spent about three hours at the Jora Primary School. (In case anyone out there is unfamiliar with the Kenyan school system, I’ll try to explain, although my knowledge on the subject is very limited: Unlike here, where children may receive a free education up through high school, in Kenya, the government funds a primary education only, that is first through eighth grade. After eighth grade, families must sort out funding for a high school or college education on their own.)
Upon our arrival, we met with the school’s headmaster. He gave us a brief overview of the school, and how many students and teachers there were and what the male to female ratio was and all that good stuff. Then, he took us into each of the classrooms. We were able to observe seven of the eight grades in action; the fourth graders were having class outside. The children welcomed us into their classes in a somewhat military fashion, Standing up and speaking to us in unison, “Good morning teachers…We are fine thanks, how are you.” A few of the classes sang songs to us. (Chet should have some good audio recordings from today.) We were able to meet four of the eight teachers—two females, two males. They were very friendly and not bothered by our brief interruption. We tried to stay in the back, out of sight and out of the way but the students, especially in the younger grades, were a bit excited by our presence. I felt bad for having turned their attention away from their teachers, but the teachers were very welcoming and didn’t seem to mind in the least. After a moment they were able to regain their pupils’ focus. READ MORE
July 13, 2005 | Robin Brotherton
"That afternoon we headed into the main village for a barazza, which means meeting."
Today started out with all of us going out in Kasigua Ranch to desnare the area. Our group consisted of members of Youth for Conservation, the Nairobi students, the WKU students and faculty, and two rangers. Poachers will tie wires around branches where the animals get caught then try to break free. As they do so, they get even more entangled causing themselves injuries. It was a lot harder to see the snares than I thought it would be. The snares blend into the surrounding and just look like twigs. 25 snares were collected.
That afternoon we headed into the main village for a barazza, which means meeting. We met with the local villages to talk about wildlife conflicts. We divided up with men sitting together and women sitting together. A group of about seven women came in and danced and sang for all of us. Allison and Dr. Ransdell got up and danced with them. Catherine even joined in.
The whole meeting was in Swahili so we were lost for the most part. We had it explained to us later. The first man that spoke said that the
animals should be forced into parks to keep them out of the community. They spoke about how the animals would come in and destroy crops and kill people and there would be no compensation. The members of the Youth for Conservation spoke about how tourism can bring in money, but they want to see the animals, but that would not be possible if all the animals were fenced up in parks. One man in the community spoke about how tourists came into one community and the women ended up pregnant.
The meeting started out rough because it was obvious that the community didn't want the animals there. In the end they agreed that they would live in harmony with the animals. A majority of the community is pessimistic because people have come in before speaking of change and nothing has happened.
The meeting ended with Dr. Ransdell speaking to the community. He thanked them for having us and told them they have a beautifual community. He told them how a week ago there was a contract signed between WKU, Nairobi University, Youth for Conservation, and Kenya Wildlife Service. This contract is a partnership between these organizations to work on the human/wildlife conflicts in Kenya.
July 12, 2005 | Natalie Jones
"As we drove past two of the five villages that comprise the region, I realized that I was getting my first glimpse of what would be my home for four of the next 12 months."
We got into Kasigau today. As we drove past two of the five villages that comprise this region, I realized that I was getting my first glimpse of what would be my home for four of the next 12 months. I will be doing my graduate thesis here and will be making two more trips here for research. We are trying to help this district develop a sustainable ecotourism-based financial plan along with much research that needs to be done, including a wildlife census for which I’ll be responsible.
Ecotourism is difficult because it’s comprised of biology, economics, anthropology, sociology, political science and conservation. What makes it especially difficult in this region is the human/wildlife conflict that plagues this area. Kasigau is located in a migration corridor between Tsavo East and Tsavo West National Parks. The abundance of wildlife causes crop damage and human injuries -- and sometimes even casualties. It will be difficult to convince this community that it is possible to benefit from the abundance of wildlife here. However, if we can help plan the ecotourism site I think that not only will the community benefit but the wildlife will as well.
It is a lofty goal and I’m anxious to get to work. I’m just getting ready to spend the first of many nights here. As I get ready for bed, I’m sure sleep will not come easily because I know I have much work to do.
READ NATALIE'S JOURNAL
July 10, 2005 | Anna Bisig
"It started pouring rain today while we were on tour of Fort Jesus. It was built by the Portuguese in 1593 and is still an amazing place to see. "
Jestin separated from the group this morning to begin his climb of Mount Kilimanjaro. It was hard for me to see him go as everyone wished him luck. I gave him my red towel for the journey so that a little piece of Western will also see the peak. The group left Nairobi this morning and traveled to Mombasa. We have heard about the attacks in London, but we do not know any details.
The city of Mombasa looks as if it has been hit by a tornado or hurricane. Buildings are falling down or only half built or they are just sheets of scrap metal with a tarp for a roof. There are so many people here. We have seen many women dressed in black from head to toe with only a small slit for their eyes. This is a predominantly Muslim area and it is tradition for engaged women to be dressed like this.
It started pouring rain today while we were on our tour of Fort Jesus. It was built by the Portuguese in 1593 and is still an amazing place to see. We were able to go in a room that had been used for the storage of slaves for trade. It was basically a cave, small, dark and dirty. Outside of the fort we visited an area of Mombasa known as Old Town. The narrow streets there do not allow for cars. As we came upon a Mosque we could hear faint voices. We walked closer and the chants of children praying echoed between the buildings like a soft song.
It is night now and we have finished dinner and our nightly discussion on our ideas for improving the plight of the Kenyan people, while conserving what is left of the country's biodiversity. Our major frustration is the corruption of high officials and their apathy towards the population as a whole. Here, money disappears before it goes where it is supposed to, for example, water purification. If basic needs of the communities are not met, and they care more about survival than wildlife, how does this country expect to sustain ecotourism? Everything here is about politics. We may think the same thing about America, but here it is on an unimaginable level.
READ ANNA'S JOURNAL
July 10, 2005 | Natalie Jones
"It was overall one of the most exhilarating experiences of my life. "
Impala Mass Capture
In South Africa the buying and trading of game species is big business. So in turn the trapping and transport of those species is also big business. We have been learning from a top professional in the field, Andre Pesler. Today we did a mass capture of impala using a boma and a helicopter.
A boma is a funnel shaped trap like structure made of heavy duty tarp reinforced with metal poles and rope. Inside the boma there were four sections, each progressively smaller and separated by a series of up to 11 curtains. We were all stationed at different curtains, well hid, and then the chopper was up. It pushed the herd towards the mouth of the boma. Then the alarm sounded and we knew the impala were on their way. Fifty to sixty rushed by in a wave of panic and next André runs by screaming “vala, vala” meaning close, close. Then we ran the curtains together as quickly as possible, each time trapping the herd in a smaller more manageable section. In the last very tight section the ram’s horns were capped and they were given a mild tranquilizer. The herd was then transported to a new site.
It was overall one of the most exhilarating experiences of my life. Impala thundering past at high speeds from every direction is thrilling. They jumped all around, trying to get over or under every curtain, one just barely clearing my head. The adrenaline was pumping through all of us for hours. A lot of care and planning went into today. It’s a major part of South Africa’s wild life management strategy and I’m glad we got the chance to participate in the action.
July 09, 2005 | Dr. Doug McElroy | Maasai Mara Game Reserve
"Heard a leopard outside the camp last night around 4 a.m. Sounded like a small catfight. "
Heard a leopard outside the camp last night around 4 am. Sounded like a small catfight. Spent the morning on a game drive through the Reserve. Lots of elephants, zebra, topi and African buffalo. In addition, we saw a pack of hyena and some mongoose (both of which were firsts for me). Saw another pride of lions - two for two. Spent some time haggling with the Maasai traders outside the gate - we got some good stuff at fair prices, but it's always a bit exhausting.
There are no absolutes, and you are instantly surrounded by people thrusting bracelets, blankets, and other tokens into your hands. Surprisingly, it actually gets to be fun after awhile. At noon we left for the drive back to Nairobi. The Rift Valley is always spectacular, and my favorite party of the trip.
READ DR. MCELROY'S JOURNAL
July 08, 2005 | Allison Harnish
"All that lied between myself and the lions last night was my sleeping bag, a thin sheet of nylon and about half a mile of Kenyan terrain. "
The group woke up bright and early this morning to eggs, pancakes, sausage, and another beautiful day on the Maasai plains. What a night. Following a delicious spaghetti dinner the students stayed up to converse around the campfire with our two Maasai Moran guardians under a starlit sky, the melodious bellows of lions, hyenas, mongoose and jackals plainly audible in the distance. How thrilling and wonderful—all that lied between myself and the lions last night was my sleeping bag, a thin sheet of nylon and about half a mile of Kenyan terrain; no fences, just Africa.
After breakfast the warriors led us to their village, stopping frequently along the way to point out animal tracks or identify unique plants. As we closed in on the manyatta we stirred up a band of Thompson's gazelle who had been resting in the grass beside us. The galloped swiftly and lightly over the hill before us like feathery white dandelion seeds floating gracefully out of sight after a strong gust of wind.
In the village we were greeted promptly by two older women dressed in traditional Maasai attire: their hair cut short, their necks adorned with multicolored beads, their shoulders wrapped in red wool blankets, their stretched earlobes supporting long strands of colorful plastic beads and their thin wrists wrapped with thick Maasai bracelets. Several children also stumbled out of the mud, stick and cow dung homes as we made our way into the manyatta (village). As is custom, they scurried over to us and bowed their heads so we could say hello in the Maasai way—by placing our hands atop their heads to bless them as we said "Sopa." Within minutes more women had
arrived. The men watched from afar, and the children, having been ushered into a clump against a wall sang curiously to us as we took their photos.
As intriguing as the experience was, I couldn't help but feel somewhat awkward. Although everyone appeared excited about having us as guests, I had a sneaking suspicion they were only welcoming us because they felt obligated to do so. After all, we had paid to stay on their land and we made a donation to their community. Many of us also bought some of the jewelry the women had made. However proud and willing the Maasai are to share their culture, they (along with most Africans of other tribes) are all too willing to please outsiders, especially outsiders who give them money. This makes it extremely difficult to assess the peoples' true position on certain issues.
After saying our goodbyes to the Maasia and taking another long bumpy ride, we made it to the Mara for an evening game drive. Along the wavy yellow plains that seemed to melt into the marshmallow clouds, we managed to spot a wide array of wildlife including: Grant's gazelle, Thompson's gazelle, topi, hartibeast, impala, warthog, cape buffalo, secretary bird, vulture, stork, waddled plover, Egyptian geese, lilac breasted roller, tawny eagle, perigreo falcon, lion, jackal, elephant, cheetah, and wildebeest.
Even after all we've done, we still have three weeks left to go and much more to do.
READ ALLISON'S JOURNAL
July 08, 2005 | Dr. Doug McElroy | Olenganaiyo Maasai village; Maasai Mara Game Reserve
"We count on the Massai, with their spears and experience to keep us safe."
Heard a pride of lions roaring as we went to sleep. The Maasai guarding the camp said they were likely a kilometer or so away, but they sounded like they could have been just outside the camp. It's both exciting and a little bit off-putting at the same time. We count on the Maasai, with their spears and experience to keep us safe. Chet got some audio recordings which should be good.
Spent the morning in a traditional Maasai manyatta (village). We were allowed to meet members of the community, visit their homes, and learn about their traditions and their way of life. The children were especially interested in seeing themselves on the digital cameras. It's almost unbelievable to think that, throughout the world, there are tremendous numbers of people who maintain traditional lifestyles, virtually separate from the world we know. It puts our worries and priorities into perspective, and makes things like time pressures, bills, and cell phone minutes seem pretty trivial.
Travelled to the Maasai Mara Game Reserve and spent the afternoon on a game drive. Saw a great pride of lions feeding on a wildebeest. We were within about 20 feet of them for about a half and hour. One male made several ambling trips around the vans. We also saw a cheetah (a first for me), though for much of the time it was almost perfectly camouflaged in the high grass. The Mara is much greener than mlast year, nut the migration has not yet reached it.
Got some great shots of a secretary bird, a large ground-feedeing bird that preys on snakes. Also saw the standard impala, gazelles, buffalo, topi, and elephant. The Mara never disappoints.
July 07, 2005 | Dr. Doug McElroy | Near Kisumu, on the shores of Lake Victoria
"Camped last night overlooking Lake Victoria. The view was astounding."
Camped last night overlooking Lake Victoria. The view was astounding. Heard a hyena laughing in the night, pretty close by. We also suffered through a tremendous thunderstorm, which I and others had previously claimed would end up being nothing more than heat lightning. As the Kisumu natives also claimed the rising 40 mph wind and cooling tempereatures meant it WOULDN'T rain, I didn't feel too bad. Nevertheless, I've been reminded of it at least 8 times today, so I wasn't completely vindicated.
July 07, 2005 | Julie Ransdell
"As we all returned to our tents for the night, we had a beautiful show of lightning with rain to follow."
We had breakfast in Kisumu and boarded a bus to Lake Victoria, the second largest lake in surface area in the world and the source of the Nile River. We met with officials of the KSNRI to engage in lectures and discussions on the ecology problems of the lake and the impact on the local economy.
In the afternoon we cruised the lake and headed for an island called Kiboko which means hippo in Swahili. There are 52 huts with fishing and agriculture as a means of income. We had a picnic lunch, met the people, saw their homes and identified wildlife and plant life.
The final stop of the day was a Kenyan home on the shores of Lake Victoria. We climbed the hill to the home and enjoyed a spectacular view. We were greeted with steaming hot porridge, herbs and gourds. We set up our campsite. The family was kind enough to provide a traditional Kenyan meal of omena (little fish), uru (quail), aliya (beef), oeambo (dried tilapia), ngege (fresh tilapia), dek and mpo (greens). All the food was cooked and served in large clay pots.
As we all returned to our tents for the night, we had a beautiful show of lightning with rain to follow.
An interesting fact from this part of the world: We are almost right on the equator so dawn is at 630 a.m. with dusk at 6:30 p.m. every day.
