TEACHER'S GUIDE TO

History and Folklife of the Kentucky Frontier

Lesson 3: Diary of Ferdinand Rozier

     On the thirty-first day of August, 1807, in company with Audubon, I left Mill Grove 
for Louisville, Kentucky, where we anticipated engaging in the mercantile business.
     Leaving Philadelphia by stage we traveled to Lancaster, Pennsylvania, a distance of 
sixty-one miles, where we arrived at four o'clock in the afternoon; we dined, and proceeded 
to Big Chickers, distant nine miles farther, where we spent the night.  The roads from 
Philadelphia to Lancaster were in excellent condition, and at about every two miles we 
found good taverns.  The only remarkable thing we noticed in agriculture was hemp, there 
being little else of interest. The city of Lancaster was attractive, but the short duration of 
our stay prevented us from having more than a casual view of it. The tavern where we slept 
was not very good; from our chambers, however, we could discern a new bridge, which 
had two immense arches spanning the river.
     At eight o'clock in the morning we left Lancaster for Elizabethtown, distant nine miles.  
The roads were miserable, and we suffered a severe jolting and shaking up.  Arriving there, 
we procured two additional horses, which made six all told, and went on to Middletown, 
where we breakfasted at a tavern named the "Eagle"; the village was small, with few houses, 
and nothing of interest.
     Journeying on to Harrisburg without mishap, over roads somewhat improved, we finally 
arrived, and discovered a very beautiful river called the Susquehannah.  The city of 
Harrisburg itself appeared very attractive to us, and its situation is beautiful; proceeding, we 
were first compelled to cross the river, which was accomplished by means of a large flatboat 
propelled by a sweep of generous proportions.
     Carlisle, sixteen miles distant, was reached in due course, and there we changed horses at 
a tavern called the "John Mason."  This city, though small, presented a fine appearance, 
having a market place, two large churches, many brick buildings, a large academy, and several
attractive taverns.  Continuing, we finally came to Walnut Bottoms, where we engaged 
chambers at a very imposing tavern; this proved far superior to any we had hitherto visited; it 
was clean and inviting; its appointments were good, and its services excellent.  On our journey
we were impressed by a tree of great size, that resembled an oak, but upon inquiry learned that 
it was called Hackberry, and produced a fruit similar in size to a cherry.  On the north and south 
of us were high mountains which presented an imposing appearance; the foliage was heavy 
and luxuriant; the soil of the foothills appeared fertile, but the crops were inferior.
     We were awakened early in the morning so as to begin our journey in good season, and 
having had a heavy storm during the night we expected to find the roads very bad, but to our 
delight they were none the worse for the rain.  Journeying most of way through woods, we came 
to Shipensburg and breakfasted; this village had only one long stret, and presented an 
appearance far from pleasing.  A lady with her sock [knitting work] proved a great talker and 
asked us many questions.  This village intersected by a creek, called the Middlespring.  We next 
came to Chambersburg, ten miles away, and there rested and purchased tickets for continuing 
our journey.  That village lies in a valley, and is composed of two squares containing a post office, 
an academy, a factory, market place and tavern.
     When the stage was at last made ready for its journey we took our places in it, but no sooner 
was the village left behind than we encountered very rought roads, which for a time caused great 
discomfort; our feelings were expressed by all the passengers, but at length we reached a tavern 
named "Cable Roussed," where our horses were changed.  We next stopped at the "John Campbell" 
tavern, and saw many drunkards about; then at "Peter White's," almost at the foot of the mountains, 
where we each were treated to a glass of excellent fresh milk.  Still going on and approaching the 
mountains, the roads became so excessively rought that Audubon and myself decided to proceed 
on foot.  Though this was a three-mile climb, we managed to cover it in three and a half hours.  So 
bad in truth was the road that it seemed well nigh impossible for any vehicle to ascend the mountain; 
the stage did go up, however, and reached the summit soon after us.  On the heights of the mountain 
was a small tavern where refreshments were served, and while partaking of a light lunch there we 
were waited on by a couple named Currie, and James, their hired man.  While we were refreshing 
ourselves, our host told harrowing tales of wild-animal beasts in the surrounding woods.  Leaving 
the summit in the stage, we continued for some distance, but the jolting, rolling and swaying was so 
frightful that we decided to descend on foot.  The three miles down the mountain was covered 
quickly, but we were utterly worn out with fatigue when we reached McConnelsburg; this village lies
in a valley, has few houses and but little of interest; we made forty miles during the day.  Leaving 
early on the next morning, after traveling thirty-two miles, over better roads, we spent the night at the 
tavern of B. Mastin.
     Having breakfasted at an early hour, we were again on our way by sunrise, and after driving two 
miles came to the Juniata River, which was crossed in a leaky flatboat.  Eight miles beyond this point 
we saw a very fine and stately mansion which was said to belong to a Mrs. Haily.  Finally after a hard 
and tiresome day we arrived at Bedford.
     Six horses were hitched to our stage when we departed the next morning.  The mountain roads 
ascended more gradually, and were less rought; the weather being exceptionally fine, forty miles were 
easily made before reaching our destination at a village called Somerset, which contained a courthouse 
that marked it at once as the county seat.  At four o'clock of the morning following we were again on 
our way, and left Somerset in a heavy fog, which at that early hour sharply accentuated the chill in the 
air.  At the end of the day we found ourselves at Laurel Hill, where we passed the night at the tavern 
of John Arranats.
     Again at four in the morning we resumed our journey, and after crossing Laurel Creek once more 
encountered rough roads, but soon reached a tavern called the "Jacob Hoff," where we breakfasted.  
Still pushing forward, at noon we came to the small house of a family called Margennefs, and procured 
a meager lunch.  At a short distance from this place a change of horses was made, and after driving all
the afternoon we entered the attractive village of Greensburg, where we spent the night.  Rising 
reluctantly at peep of day, we continued on our course and made ten miles before breakfasting at a 
tavern, the "Stewart Auberge" by name.  After leaving this point we came to Turtle Creek, when the 
road descended so abruptly that it was decided to dismount and walk, but the heat was sultry and 
oppressive, and we suffered greatly.  At last, however, the city of Pittsburgh was reached, and there 
we found good and commodious lodgings at the Jefferson Hotel, conducted by Mr. Galland, a most 
genial and agreeable host.  We remained in Pittsburgh several days, and became acquainted with many 
of its citizens, among whom were several countrymen of ours who were engaged in business and were 
very congenial and hospitable.  The city does not present a pleasing appearance; it has been increasing 
in size with astounding rapidity, and possesses a remarkable commerce; the Ohio River there is most 
beautiful.
     The remainder of our journey was by way of the Ohio, and we made it entirely in an open flatboat, a 
cumbersome unwieldy craft, managed by hand, and in this particulary instance very badly.  One who 
has never had this experience can little understand the terrible monotony, hardships and deprivations 
encountered on a long journey such as we endured.  We were unprotected from the elements, and our 
beds consisted of bare pine boards, upon which we slept as best we could, enveloped in our great coats.
     There were times without number when our boat would run upon hidden sand bars to become 
grounded, and we were then often obliged to get into the cold water and assist in the work of extricating 
her.  At other times, unprotected as we were, the rains drenched us to the skins, and our clothing was 
so saturated that it took many hours to dry.  At night when it was clear, we continued our course down
the river, but, in bad weather, or when very cloudy and dark, we were obliged to tie up to the shore, 
frequently to the bank of some wild, uninhabited island, and wait there for daylight; then we would 
resume our slow, tedious and seemingly never ending journey.  Added to these hardships, our boat was 
commanded by a most disagreeable and ungentlemanly captain, named Harris; his language, and 
demeanor marked him as a person of low birth and bad character.
     Among some of the placees which were passed en route, I remember the following: Wheeling, 
Marietta, Market Slough, famous for the conspiracy of Colonel Burr, Belleville, Litards Falls, Point 
Pleasant, Manchester, Maysville, Cincinnati, and finally our journey's end, Louisville.

from The Diary of Ferdinand Rozier, as printed in Francis H. Herrick, Audubon the Naturalist

(New York: D. Appleton and Co., 1917).

Using the excerpt from Rozier's diary

1. Chart on a map the route of Rozier's coach between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh. How 
    much time was required to travel the approximate 200 miles? How much time is required
    today by car? By plane?

2. Prepare a large wall map showing the waterways between Pittsburgh and Louisville. Using 
    pushpins and string, squares of colored paper, or other distinct markers, show Rozier's 
    route, stops, and the places he mentioned on his trip.

3. Pretend you are a flatboat traveler in 1800 and write a letter to a friend in which you describe 
    your accommodations on the boat, the hazards of the journey, and the plant and animal life 
    you saw while on your trip.

This lesson comes from A Teacher's Guide to Pioneer Life in South Central Kentucky, by Nancy 
Disher Baird and Carol Crowe-Carraco.