My research now shows that there is a Cave Temple
Complex in Arochukwu in the hinterland of Nigeria that served as a
secret slave dealing location and processing center. I have
self-consciously established a particular trail of Igbo slave journeys
from the Temple of Complex in Arochukwu through former interior slave
markets and slaveholding quarters in Ututu, Bende, and Azumini.
When developed, the Temple Complex together with the trail could bring
slave journey-related tourism in Nigeria to a point comparable to the
boom in Ghana and Senegal.
More than just a tourist destination, the Arochukwu Cave Temple Complex
is expected to become a pilgrimage site for African Americans; more so
those of Igbo ancestry. Since we celebrate the history of our long
journey from slavery to freedom every February, the Aro Pilgrimage
Foundation will start organizing a Journeying Back from Freedom to
Freedom Pilgrimage to Africa; with effect from February 2009.
That will be the beginning of an annual symbolic journeying back to the
state of freedom that was before the Atlantic slave trade began.
When people want to visit the beginning points of the
slave journeys to the United States from West Africa, they usually do
not go to Nigeria in the Slave Coast. Instead they go to Senegal
(the former Grain Coast) or Ghana (the former Gold Coast).Yet it is
estimated that over 50% of the enslaved Africans that came to the United
States, came directly from the region that Europeans traders named the
Slave Coast to distinguish it from the Grain Coast (much of Gambia and
Senegal), from the Ivory Coast (now Cote D’Ivoire); and from the Gold
Coast (now Ghana). Some of the Igbo victims of the Atlantic slave trade
(maybe thousands), were not declared slaves until they were ritually
processed, symbolically declared dead, and covertly funneled through
cave tunnels to coastal towns of Bonny and Calabar for the forced
journey across the Atlantic Ocean.Most of them boarded slave ships at
Bonny and traveled directly to Virginia and the greater
Potomac/Chesapeake region of the United States and later to the
plantations in the regions that became known as the Cotton or Black Belt
in the Deep South—including part of Georgia, all of Alabama and
Mississippi.From the Deep South, with their eyes set on freedom,
thousands of the enslaved Africans escaped to freedom in the North even
to Canada.
As we view this material vestige of slave journey, we
should look beyond the vicissitude of the journey and begin to seek to
bring healing to the deep-seated wounds of the historical tragedy of
chattel slavery, on both sides of the Atlantic. I propose a journey back
to the Temple Complex in Arochukwu, Nigeria.The Arochukwu Cave was a
definite starting point of some of the slave journeys that took enslaved
Africans across the Atlantic Ocean—the Middle Passage—to the Americas
where they eventually became free.The implication of from Freedom to
Freedom here is that a journey that leads from North America back
through the tunnels of disappearance in the Ancient Cave Temple Complex
to the hinterland of the Slave Coast would be a symbolic journey to the
state of freedom that was before the Atlantic slavery began.
In pre-Atlantic slavery times, the people of
Arochukwu (the Aro) had performed customary rites for Chukwu—the Great
Spirit—in the Temple Complex.
As the ritual specialists and custodians of the Temple the Aro
alone could enter the cave to travel into the Dark Chamber Presence of
Chukwu (God) and through a major Oracle (Ibin Ukpabi) interpret the
voice of Chukwu. At that time, the Ancient Cave Temple Complex was the
highest court of justice in Igboland. People from all over Igboland went
to the Temple to seek the truth from Chukwu Abiama or Abiamara (“the
Great Spirit to which Seekers of the Truth Come”) and to hear judgments
through the Oracle. Those found guilty were either sold on to slavery or
put to death depending upon the degree of their offence and the
judgments of Chukwu. The
blood of those that received the death penalty colored the running
stream in the cave, the River of Blood, red.
At the cave entrance from which the River of Blood issued,
families thus waited to receive judgment on the fate of the accused by
the subsequent coloring, or not, of this stream.
It was with the advent of the Atlantic slave trade
in West Africa during the 17th century that the Aro, assuming
the role of the leaders of the trade in the Igbo hinterland, exploited
the Temple Complex in a very remarkable way—by using it as a major
secret slave dealing location. During this time, the Aro took captured
victims to the Temple Complex in what appeared to be the same ritual
that had been undertaken since before memory, but as the victims
disappeared into the cave tunnels (the tunnels of disappearance), the
Aro would falsely color the river red with dye from the red cam wood to
leave the impression that the condemned had died. The red water flowing
from the cave was a signal to the relatives that the victims were dead.
In reality, some of the tunnels (the Tunnel of
Disappearance) led to various exist points on the trade routes to
the Slave Coast. One of the outlets eventually led to Iyi Eke; a point
from where the enslaved, now blindfolded, were led to Onu Abu Bekee,
or European Beach in Ito.
And from there, waiting boats took the slaves to Calabar for onward
transmission to the New World and slavery.
The other led to Afia Oso Nwamkpi a slave market in Ututu from
where, using He-Goat as a metaphor, Aro traders and escorts took the
victims to major hinterland slave markets in Bende, Uzuakoli, Azumini
and eventually to Bonny.
Ours is a story of the
memory of pain. The idea of slave dealing in the Temple of God with
direct links to Shipping Ports in the Slave Coast is painful. Entering
the Chamber Presence and facing the exact place to which the slave
dealers took the victims of the Atlantic slave trade for judgment and
ritual processing; to the exact place where probably thousands of
African slaves entered and symbolically died is breathtaking.
Following the tunnels of disappearance through the trade routes
to the point where the Atlantic Oceans ends in a twilight zone is
heartrending. The experience can be overwhelming and the story bitter.
But it is the truth that must told in order to begin to make real
the reconnection with Africa our ancestral home, enhance
reconciliation and forgiveness, and start the healing of the deep-seated
wounds of the Atlantic slave trade and slavery on both sides of the
Atlantic.
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